Great White Anxiety
I have just returned from my 4th trip to the Chatham Islands, arguably my favourite place on Earth. For those of you who dont know, the Chathams are a group of islands, 850Km east of New Zealand, on the way to South America. They are situated in the roaring forties and where the sub antarctic currents meet the warm water (14 degrees C!) creating amazing fish life. The water is crystal clear and spectacular. Our friend Ian is a commercial Paua (abalone) diver so I went on a few dive trips. Gigantic crayfish (lobster), and abalone live in relatively shallow water of Pitt Island, with a population of about 25 people. It is remote, beautiful and clean. One Pitt Islander commented how they wanted to go to uninhabited South East Island for a holiday TO GET AWAY FROM IT ALL! They complained about the traffic on Pitt Island increasing (we saw 2 cars and 2 four wheel motorbikes in a whole day!! It shows how we adapt to our environment and its perceived stress.
Speaking of stress, on the way to Pitt one of the divers Scott was filling me with stories of the perils of commercial Paua diving. He had been diving recently for crayfish and was ascending in about 50 feet of water with a full bag of lobster, being followed by a school of cod when they suddenly dissapeared. Thats odd he thought! The cod were then replaced by a 20 foot long Great White Shark that literally tried to eat him. Scotty tried stuffing a full bag of lobster in the massive sharks jaws and swam over its back as it continued snapping at him. He was terrified but his agility and experience kept him away from the shark until he was rescued by the boatman.
So as we pull into a fog shrouded Pitt Island more stories were being told of how someone else lost an arm in the next bay to a “Whitie” (Great White Shark. Having been to the Chathams before I have heard many Great White Stories and even dived and surfed there before. The crew were telling me how to be VERY CAREFUL and that “Whities” are crafty and will sneak up on you and “CHOMP”.
So you can imagine my trepidiation as I struggled into my wetsuit looking more and more like a seal about to immerse myself in the icy, but thankfully clear waters. It would give me a chance to see one coming (if I looked up in time!) . While I am sure there was an element of winding up the new diver, being eaten by a Great White Shark is definitely a significant occupational Health and Safety hazard in this part of the world.
I must confess to having some serious unhealthy thinking and anxiety as I looked in the weed for the gigantic abalone, and over my shoulder for sharks. It was eerie. I must also confess to thinking, what a terrible job. Hunter gathering in cold, remote dangerous waters. The abalone would be canned and shipped to Asia, perhaps devoured in a flash with little thought to the lives risked on gathering it.
I must admit to being thankful I was only helping and for a week. We battled huge swells and waves on the way to Pitt from the main Island, surely one of the most treacherous passages of waters in the world as the Southern Ocean hits the Chatham rise.
Each days these guys put their lives at risk, just getting to work is a mission in itself, getting home was even more spectacular as 35 knot winds crossed a 3 metre swell and our little boat was tossed around like a cork.
I must admit that when the sun burnt off the fog and the crystal clear waters sparkled with abundant sea life my attitude changed. It went from the worst job in the world to the best job in the world. My fear turned to excitement and coupled with the joy of survival I had an amazing day diving. I even plucked up courage to spear some of the largest fish I have seen freediving.
I must admit to being amazed at the job these guys to every day. 10 hours in the water, up at 4am to steam the boat through potentially life threatening seas. You have to see it to believe it. No two days are the same.
So next time I am complaining about the Auckland traffic, or I hear of someone complaining because they have to change their office floor, or because they dont have enough time or because the photocopier is jammed, I will think of the Chatham Island fishermen and be grateful that I have the privelige to be able to experience it, and realise sometimes how minor sometimes our city job worries really are.